Wall confinement technic by magnetic gradient inversion
By Lambda Laboratory.
Here are the pictures corresponding to the illustrations selected for the paper to be presented at the International Symposium on high power pulsed Korea (EAPPC BEAMS-2010).
On the left, the glow discharge with a big deconfinement, due to the magnetic gradient. On the right, the effect of the magnetic confinement.
We can then express the electrical conductivity in the form of a matrix. One can also say that there are two conductivities, one parallel, “direct” and the other “transverse”. At a given pressure, depending on the value of the magnetic field, determining that the Hall parameter,there are two extremes of situations.
First configuration: the Hall parameter is small compared with unity. The electrical conductivity is reduced to
the scalar electrical conductivity.
Second configuration: The Hall parameter is very large compared to unity.
We obtain the following
If we want to obtain high values of Hall parameter with modest resources (permanent magnets) we have a solution: Work under low pressure.
Ionocrafts, also known as Ionic Lifters, are some of the most ingenious displays of motor-less flight. They function on the principle that a high-voltage current running through small wire will ionize particles in the air. These ionized particles are pushed down by the current and hit neutral air molecules. The collision between the two types of particles creates a very slight upward force capable of lifting a very light object. Although they are not efficient enough to be very practical, Ionocrafts make excellent science experiments and demonstrations of ionic wind. Remember, though: This is a high-voltage device that is extremely dangerous. Do not attempt to build this without prior high-voltage electronics experience.
Things You'll Need
•Marker or pen
•Insulated 26- to 32-gauge wire
•3 Balsa wood sticks, 1.5-by-2-by-75 mm
•6 Balsa wood sticks, 1.5-by-2-by-200 mm
•3 Balsa wood sticks, 1.5-by-2-by-30 mm
•Copper wire, approximately 27- to 30-gauge
•CRT monitor, supplying above 25K
•250 kiloohm by 3 watt resistor
Building the Craft Body
1 Use the cyanoacrilate glue to make a flat (horizontal) equilateral triangle out of three of the 200-mm-long balsa sticks. Let the glue dry as per the manufacturer's instructions.
2 Glue one of the 75-mm-long balsa sticks vertically to each of the vertices of the triangle. Make sure the glue sets properly for each connection that is made.
3 Glue the remaining three 200-mm-long balsa sticks exactly 45 mm directly above the first set of 200-mm-long sticks. They should attach via glue to the vertical sticks, and should be perfectly parallel with the first triangle. It is sometimes helpful to use a flat vertical surface, such as a wall, to line up the placement of these sticks. The vertical sticks should be sticking out above these sticks at each vertex.
4 Measure and mark the middle of each of the bottom (base) sticks. Flip the craft body over. Glue one 30-mm-long balsa stick perpendicular to the base sticks and connected to them at the middle points that were just marked. These are the legs of the craft. Be sure to orient them perfectly on the vertical. They should be parallel with the sticks that are connected to the vertices. By now, the result should be a triangular prism-shaped object.
5 Cut three strips of aluminum foil exactly 210-mm-by-45-mm. Use the glue to fix each one of these to the panels, or sides, that have been created by the two long balsa sticks and the two sticks glued to the vertices of the triangle on each side. The result should be that the aluminum makes a constant strip around the craft body, oriented parallel to the base sticks, that has no gaps or protruding objects.
6 Cut very small notches in the tops of the vertical sticks (not the legs). Wrap the 30-gauge copper wire once around the three sticks, placing it in the notches. If it does not stay securely, use glue to affix it. Run a length of wire a short distance away from the lifter from one of the sticks.
Building the Power Source
1 Take the back cover off the CRT monitor after being sure that it has been unplugged for at least two to three days. Identify the wire braid around the picture tube, and the rubber nipple attached to the picture tube. Use masking tape and a pen to mark the braid as negative and the nipple as positive. Detach the nipple from the picture tube gently by squeezing its sides with two fingers or pliers. 2 Cut two holes in the monitor's back cover, one on each side. The placement is not critical. Just make the holes big enough for a bit of wire and possibly the nipple to fit through.
3 Solder two insulated wires to the wire braid. Run these two wires out one hole, and the nipple wire out the other hole.
4 Strip the nipple wire about 5 cm from the nipple itself and place the 250 kiloohm resistor in line. This will prevent the high-voltage circuitry from being destroyed just in case the circuit shorts. Use electrical tape to insulate the wire you stripped and the resistor.
5 Run the nipple from the monitor over a bucket. The nipple should rest on top of the bucket, at least 50 cm from the ground, so it is insulated. Solder a copper wire to the nipple's electrode, and solder the other end to the wire running from the wrapped wire atop the craft body.
Wiring the Grounds and Taking Flight
1 Take one of the negative wires soldered to the wire braid. Tape this wire to one of the aluminum foil panels. Take the other negative wire and attach it to a discharge probe that is well isolated from the rest of the workspace. This will discharge the high voltage after powering down the craft.
2 Ensure that all connections are secure, and that no wires are inadvertently crossing one another. Make sure all observers or other conductive objects are at least 10 feet from the lifter or power source. Once you plug in the monitor, the lifter should receive power, and it will begin flight. To prevent it from breaking, you may want to tie some string to the legs and tape the string to the ground.
3 Make sure you are in a safe place when plugging in and unplugging the lifter. To discharge it, unplug the monitor and discharge the entire circuit using the discharge probe.
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Good find hiflier, quite interesting too that they were wanting the publics photographs ( most probably to cover it up ) almost everything back then was sent wo wright patterson airforce base that is where the alleged roswell debris was taken.
Speaking of old technologies I'm looking into some UFO artifact history from the 50's and came across that report about the piece of debris that was supposedly "shot" off of a 2ft. diameter disc over Wasington D.C. by a pilot during the '52 flap we were talking about in the General Forum. I was also reading the 1975 Ubatuba account and the different tests that pure Magnesium26 sample found at a Rio beach was put through. I thought to myself about that account of an interview with that Canadian guy, Wilbert B. Smith, when he mentioned an artifact (from D.C. I think) and thought I'd try to find some support for it.
I dug around a little and found this WRT to Magnesium26 from 1954:
I'm getting the impression that archived items can be a good resource if crossreferenced along small facts presented in reports across the science communities. Now this particular example could be construed as circumstantial at best and I would have to agree but it's really the approach to this style of research that I'm getting at. To me, there is nothing new under the Sun and all the pertinent stuff is within information that is much older.
theadorethedog: I took a picture yesterday..and would appreciate any input from the experts. but it won't download on to this sight. what is my other otion for this to be analized?
Jul 21, 2016 1:13:29 GMT 1
barry: Check out uforn members and send by email. Welcome to the site
Jul 21, 2016 8:39:59 GMT 1
amanda: Where can I send a video of a sighting? What is the email address?
Sept 3, 2016 11:04:03 GMT 1
barry: Welcome amanda. You can post the video on this site or email it to uforn (click on the members list at the top, click on uforn and you will find the email address, hope this helps
Sept 4, 2016 8:49:54 GMT 1
ufofinderbob: how do I sendyomy pics
Sept 5, 2016 3:46:42 GMT 1
barry: Welcome bob, you can post your pics on this site 1.pick a thread (submitted ufo sightings would be good) then click 'attachments' and download the photos. Or send them to me (email@example.com) and I will post them to this site, hope this helps
Sept 5, 2016 8:59:06 GMT 1
renaroo123: I took this picture with my phone camera about 2 months ago but didn't notice the object on the left until last week.
Nov 5, 2016 19:50:27 GMT 1
renaroo123: did I capture something or is it just from my camera? okay i'm doing something wrong...i'll figure it out...lol
Nov 5, 2016 19:52:31 GMT 1
ufosighter: July 1969 in western PA...I experienced an actual disc sighting. 10' above me. 35' in diameter. Nickle in color.
Dec 29, 2016 13:25:15 GMT 1
barry: Hi ufosighter, welcome to uforn. like to hear more of your sighting
Dec 30, 2016 8:36:46 GMT 1
barry: Very quiet......the calm before the storm?
Jan 27, 2017 8:46:53 GMT 1
uforn: Sure is Baz very quiet indeed
Feb 8, 2017 14:50:52 GMT 1